July 4th Adventures

Carlyle Road
Greenville, more about seek Illinois

For the 2010 4th of July weekend in St. Louis, troche what is ed Mother Nature has given us the quintessential summer experience, sickness with weather the way we remember idyllic summers of our youth.  Surely someone somewhere has a summer family vacation memory that includes 2 Acres Motel in Greenville, Illinois, pulling off the interstate to luxuriate in the lullaby hum of frigid window unit air, with the color RCA television as night light for their slumber.

Today we head off for photo adventures in Granite City and beyond, to document more treasures like the 2 Acres Motel. I hope you are having your own unique adventures, and that we all have a safe and happy holiday that will inspire future summer memories.

Ecology of Absence Has a New Home

The venerable and vital blog Ecology Of Absence has moved to new digs inside the Preservation Research Office, which is Michael Allen’s business and website.

We still have everything we love about EOA as long as we change our bookmarks and RSS feeds to:
http://preservationresearch.com/

And I’m sneaking one other bit of website news onto the tail end of the PRO news…

Defining Downtown at Mid-Century: The Architecture of the Bank Building & Equipment Corporation of America is a thorough catalog of this design-build firm’s work across our nation.

I’ll give you the shortcut straight to the Missouri/St. Louis bits, and you’ll instantly see why this site is so fabulous:
St. Louis MCM by Bank Building & Equip Corp.

Fire Alters Downtown Belleville Landscape

200 block of E. Main Street
Belleville, IL

Of the 3 buildings pictured above, the first two from the corner are now gone because of a major fire in the early morning hours of May 26,2010. Read the detailed story with photos from the Belleville News-Democrat.

The consistently excellent reporting by the BND revealed that what I always thought of as two distinct buildings is actually 3 buildings. And while it was obvious that the facade of the former Fellner’s department store was a very choice mid-century modern retrofit, I had no idea just how very, very old all 3 of these buildings are (and, sadly, were) – dating back to 1865!

By late Wednesday afternoon, the sad remains of the two buildings (partially depicted above) were demolished and being carted off.

This part of downtown Belleville constantly amazes me because so very much of its original density has been preserved simply because it’s still being used. And I’ve admired the Fellner storefront because it was so tastefully done, adding a thick chapter of jet set glamor to the Belleville business district story. Now there are two businesses down and a violent void.  But because it is such a visible and functional spot, neighbors are immediately thinking ahead. As quoted from the BND report:

“It’s a tragedy to lose a building built in 1865,” said Geri Boyer, a resident of the Writers’ Lofts across East Main Street from the fire. “But, because I’m involved in development, it does open up some development opportunities for the buildings that are left. It opens the door for some potential for that space: parking, green space, a courtyard. Maybe it becomes a restaurant with outdoor seating.”

Boyer is an engineer and owns the Kaskaskia Engineering Group in Belleville. One of the structural engineers employed by her firm inspected the burned buildings.

“She made the same assessment the fire chief had already made: It was really unstable and something needed to be done immediately,” Boyer said.

This portion of the former Fellner still remains, and was saved by the intact fire wall, as reported by BND:

A fire wall that divided the thrift store from the community center stopped the fire’s progress. That wall separated the women’s department of the old Fellner’s from the rest of the clothing store.

The fire wall extended from the basement to the roof and was one story higher than the building that was on fire, which helped firefighters, (Belleville Fire Chief Scott) Lanxon said.

“If there are no places to stop a fire like that, there’s a chance you could lose a whole city block,” Lanxon said. “That’s what they’re there for, to stop from losing a city block.”

Lanxon stressed the importance of keeping fire walls intact. “If a fire wall is intact, it does its job. If there are holes made in it for one reason or another, if people punch holes through them, the fire could spread,” he said.

A reader’s poll within this on-line news report shows that the overwhelming majority of participating readers want the city to “rebuild so new businesses can open there,” and I love that can-do spirit, and agree with them. But I do hope that this portion of the MCM retro-fit can be retained as a remnant of the story that was extinguished. Maybe it can even inform the look or style of the new structure that may rise from the ashes.

A Bank Sign Resurfaces

5701 Chippewa
South St. Louis, MO

The original bank sign buried under the Gospel Church sign has broke free and come up for air! Click the photo to enlarge it and check out the hand-lettered cursive.

Here’s the building the resurfaced sign belongs to.

And the building is now for sale. Did an interested buyer want to see what’s under there, or did Mother Nature’s recent fireworks send the panel airborne?

Either way, it’s nice to see the old Public Service Savings & Loan Association sign. Welcome back!

Lindell MCM Walking Tour, May 1st

Saturday, May 1st, 2010 at 10 a.m

Join Michael Allen (Ecology of Absence) and myself for a walking tour of mid-century modern buildings on Lindell Boulevard in the Central West End, St. Louis, MO.

This second edition of our tour is part of the Open Streets 2010 event, and is co-sponsored by the St. Louis Building Arts Foundation.  This tour is free, while the knowledge and appreciation of Lindell’s thick and rich stock of MCM buildings is priceless.

Here’s an overview of some of the buildings you will see up close and narrated.

Meet us at 10 a.m. on Saturday, May 1st, at the Pope statue in front of St. Louis University’s Pius XII Library, 3650 Lindell Boulevard (the Pius XII is a breathtaking MCM beauty – check it out here).

The official leg of the tour is from Pius XII to the former Housing Authority building (recently saved from the CVS wrecking ball) at Sarah & Lindell. We will take a short break stop, and continue with the unofficial portion of the tour from Sarah to Kingshighway.

Join us at 10 a.m., or catch up with us at any point on the walk. Look for a large group of people completely smitten with the mid-century modern treasures of the Central West End.  We look forward to sharing the riches with you!

Hidden Mid-Century Modern

Bingham Avenue & Newport
South St. Louis, MO

Right next door to the South Side City Block For Sale, and practically in the shadow of the former candy company (background left in the picture above) is the home of Lyon Sheet Metal Works.

The company dates back to 1922, while their “new” building went up in 1950. The building itself is a basic brick factory, but the the glass block windows with stainless steel sills and that entrance are top of the line style for a company buried back in a part of town where few tread …today. But back in the day, with the candy/paper factory open and Western Bowl down the street, it was probably a rather hoppin’ intersection, but still off the beaten path.

Looking through the peeling grey paint, the metal panels that make up the mod, “L”-shaped facade appear to have originally been beige. In this case, I like the light grey better, as it poetically evokes what the company does, along with the stainless steel letters.

This is a strange and personal aside about Lyons:
I always get a pleasant little flutter in my tummy when I walk by this building, and always hear this line from the Pixies’ song “Subbacultcha”:  “She shakes and she moves me or something/she’s like jelly roll/ like sculpture!”

Head half a block down Newport to Meramec and you’ll find this little mid-century modern gem tucked into the line of dingy brick homes.  Built in 1956, it’s 1,362 square feet, slab on grade.  It’s taken a large amount of abuse, but I still see its glamor dying to shine again.

There is no other house even remotely like this within a mile radius. All the homes around it are 1910-1940s tiny brick bungalows. Circumstantial evidence would point to this being a mid-century in-fill. And because it’s such an oddity in this area, it boils my imagination….

…the original brick home burnt down, and the owners – who vacationed in Los Angeles every year and loved modern art – decided to turn that insurance money into their own slice of Southern California. They hooked up with a 3rd year architecture student at Wash U. for the drawings, but the construction foreman was not impressed: “No basement? In St. Louis? You’re nuts!”

Yeah, like I said, the imagination tends to runaway…

Hard To Get To MCM: Hayes Hi-Pointe

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Intersection of Clayton, Forest & Oakland Avenues
St. Louis City, MO

It’s hard to get noticed when you’re wedged into a 3-way intersection within a larger intersection of the wackiest interchange in the City of St. Louis.  People are too busy trying to figure out where to go to pay much attention to things that are not the world’s largest Amoco sign or the retro-fabulous Hi-Pointe Theatre.  For verification that this is no exaggeration, take a look at the map to see how confusing this slice of roadway really is.

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Getting on foot to try and get to the Hayes Hi-Pointe Building is almost as challenging, because of all the vehicles that are either a) confused about which way to turn, or b) irritated at those who don’t know which way to turn.  Photographically, the building itself is often encumbered with for sale/lease banners, overgrown landscaping (see above) or – as on this day – a boarded up window on the Oakland Avenue side, which was a fresh accident because the shattered glass was still spread across the sidewalk.

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Aside from all the challenges, it’s a sharply tailored slice of mid-century modern in the Hi-Pointe neighborhood.  City records claim the building is from 1905, which is absurd, both stylistically and construction-wise, and a 1958 aerial calendar shows nothing much at all on this odd plot of land.  By 1961, the City directory lists Alfred W. Hayes & Co. (the building’s namesake) and Algonquin Investment Co. at this address (plus a couple of physicians), and the architecture matches that year.

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A walk around this trapezoidal building reveals many subtle details not noticeable while driving by, and is a mini-workout because it’s all up or down hill, and the building does a nice job of attuning itself to the topography.  For all the difficulty the site, the intersections and the upkeep present, it’s still one of my most favorite overlooked mid-century modern gems in St. Louis City.

Mid-Century Modern Industrial Park

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Lindbergh Warson Industrial Center
St. Louis County, MO

In an unincorporated part of St. Louis county nestled between Creve Coeur and Maryland Heights is an office park that reads like a catalog of mid-century modern commercial architecture.  On North Warson Road at the half way point between Olive Boulevard and Page Avenue is the building above.  It’s always looked vaguely military to me – can’t say why, exactly.  Turns out it went up around 1962 for Continental Textile Corporation of America, so there was nothing weaponry about it, other than – it turns out – this is just the opening shot of a large group of buildings behind it.

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Inside the office park proper, it becomes clear that it was first developed during the boom years of City-To-County migration, and offers a concise diary of how new industrial architecture used to reflect the optimism of pioneering new frontiers and then quickly dimmed to pre-fab profit-margin boxes.   The 1970-80s buildings have no personalities, while the older ones certainly do. In the case of the building above on Research Boulevard, it strived to reflect the product of its original owner in 1968, the Dallas Ceramic Co.

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This 1963 building originally for Dute Steel Supply Company is, oddly enough, defined by wood detailing.

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Next door is this charming bit of California modern, built in 1961 for B.C. MacDonald, and it is one of two buildings that retains the company it was built for.  They have pride in their building; from the skylight in the lobby, to the concrete sun screen to the original stainless steel lettering, it’s all in pristine condition.

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Even more charming, above, is another bit of original signage at the rear, warehouse end of the building.  Note that rather than remove or damage the raised letters, they simply drew a line between the old and new paint colors.

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At 1200 Research Boulevard is this massive building that looks, to me, like the caricature of “Corporate America” as shown in the background of 1960s cartoons (and that’s a compliment!).

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This long and deep horizontal block was built in 1962 for the Butler Paper Company, which may have been a division of the J.W. Butler Paper Co. out of Chicago in the late 19th century.  Regardless of provenance, the building is a reminder that American companies actually once did manufacture actual goods right here in America, and so needed buildings large enough to house equipment, shipping  (dead train tracks still run through the park) and administrative.  On top of that, they considered it good form to present a good face to the public, and reflected that in their corporate architecture.  All of these corporate concepts seem so old fashioned, but it was all still happening 45-50 years ago.

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Stylistically, it appears that the Lindbergh Warson Industrial Center began developing on Baur Boulevard, as all the cherry buildings are on this stretch at the northern end of the complex.  Dierberg’s is smart enough to currently house the headquarters in this handsome piece, which was built in 1958 for the Mid States Gum Paper company.  This place is so big that, in 1963, they shared the space with Minnesota Mining & Mfg.

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Once, not too long ago, prescription medicines were dispensed by doctors on an as-needed basis, rather than pushed in elaborate and expensive marketing campaigns.  Pharmaceuticals were a much smaller – and far less glamorous – industry back in 1962 when Upjohn Co. built this place at Baur & Lindbergh.

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Here’s the other building that still houses the company it was originally built for.  Compton & Sons moved into this building around 1963.  It’s a low-key, unassuming affair, but as with B.C. Macdonald shown previously, they have kept up with detailed maintenance that allows them to keep most all of the original fabric and…

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…they’ve kept the original signage!  Which is now showing the special patina of age only available on old-fashioned lettering, and I love that they are letting it keep its personality.

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This low-slung dark beauty seems to go on for days.  It was built in 1963 for the installation department of Southwestern Bell Telephone Company.

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The public entrance has some interesting details, like the inset concrete grills (which were originally painted white and then blue) and how the half wall creates an outdoor lobby that directs one to the front door.  Also of note is that the angle of the parking spaces perfectly parallel the angle of the half wall on the far right of the photo above, which is one of those small, but great, touches that architects throw in for the amusement of people who pay attention to those kinds of details.

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This horizontal slash on the horizon is so crisp and smart, that I don’t even mind the white blinds obscuring the picture windows because it adds to the geometric flow.

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Move up closer to this 1962 building and admire the simple but compelling tiled fascia running vertically down the length of the building, and how that pattern flips horizontally inside the entry way, and be not surpirsed that it was the originally the home of St. Louis County Tile, Inc.

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For pure “wow” factor, this 1959 jewel wins Best In Show, and I’d love to scoop up the western end of this building and make it my new home.

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The aqua tile and metal panels with black tailored frames are to die for.  The little windows inserted into the plate glass grid are still operable, and one was even open on this fair weather day (which is so retro!).

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Whomever originally designed this building for Abbott Laboratories excelled at visually delineating administrative from warehouse while retaining the theme with the kind of sophistication (and a dash of glamor) usually reserved for private residences of the same era.  This is the building that first caught my eye when cutting through on Baur, slowing me down enough to then notice what other treasures were around it (of which some have been left undepicted here so you might discover them for yourself).  It remains the building I have the biggest crush on.  But the building I genuinely love the most is…

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1355 Warson Road, built in 1957 for General Electric Company.   This is like a text book of good mid-century modern commercial architecture; it expertly combines massing, texture and detail to create a distinguished modern face for what was already, at that time, a venerable corporate institution.

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Here we’re looking at the public facade of the building, and even when you turn the corner, there is much detail delight in the geometric concrete side entrance.  What isn’t shown is how utterly massive this building is, stretching on down the street for what seems like a tiny village.  They needed the space because they were manufacturing appliances, and because of the era, it’s easy to see how GE investing in this much acreage in the county is what spurred other manufacturers to fill in the land behind them.  And to this day, the former GE building sits calmly atop the highest point in the park, like the title page of the book on last great era of American manufacturing.

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Though occupied, the building needs some maintenance love and care, while just a real good scrubbing would reveal its understated splendor to passersby.  Which might then cast a spotlight on the whole industrial park, and it needs it.  Many of these buildings shown here are vacant, with for sale/lease signs in front… bad economy and all.  It is the only example of an architecturally worthy industrial park that I’ve seen. Do you know of any others?

Why’d Ya Tear It Down?

former-commerce-bank

475 N. Lindbergh
Florissant MO

This building was always a bank, as long as I can remember from growing up in North St. Louis County.  In December of 2001 I snapped this quick picture as I waited in traffic, as a visual reminder to go back and photograph it properly at a later date.  I like round buildings, in general, and I liked how this one’s roundness was composed of blonde brick panels with long, skinny windows between.  It was a low-key but slightly whimsical building.

Since taking this photo, I’d passed the bank many times, but conditions were always wrong for photos.  One brilliant spring day in 2007, I was back in the area and thought, “This is the day to shoot the round bank building!” But no, it was gone.  All that remained was a busted up blacktop parking lot and a round hole where the building was.  This is the only photo I have, the only reminder.

Now here it is, almost 3 years later, and Desco still has a For Sale sign up on an ugly, busted up blacktop property, with a listing price of $1.7 million.

The building was torn down and the property put up for sale well before the real estate meltdown, so that excuse for its vacancy is only 18 months old, at best .  And I’m assuming Desco figured it would be easier to sell property in this dense retail corridor without the building on it.

It’s always been expensive to build new buildings, which is why – in the current financial climate – many companies are happy to convert existing retail/commercial buildings to their needs.  And it has always been expensive to demolish a building of this size, but in happier economic times, realtors could afford to gamble on a bigger gain by clearing a property.

But in this case, the gamble has yet to pay off, and I wonder if Desco had left that unique bank building in place if maybe someone in today’s climate would have been more willing to take it at a reduced price and remodel to suit?

Our recession is teaching everyone a lot about thrift, sustainability, resources and conservation.  It now seems shockingly wasteful to demolish a perfectly serviceable building in hopes of landing a buyer with really deep pockets for acquisition and construction.  Especially in the case of this property, which  – because it has neighbors on all sides – can only accommodate a small-to-medium sized building, much like the one that was once there.

I do miss the building, and do hope that Desco and their ilk contemplate the proverb: Waste Not, Want Not.

An MCM Light Bulb Moment

buder-building

5230 Hampton Avenue, South St. Louis City, MO

While yet again photographing the former Buder branch of the St. Louis Public Library, I had a literal “light bulb went off over my head” cartoon moment of realization.  All of the original pole light fixtures of this 1961 building (which still work, courtesy of the great up-keep from the Record Exchange), look like the ones that are now missing from…

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…this 1959 church in Black Jack which I covered here, previously.  Checking my photo archives verified that, yes, it is the exact same light fixtures.  Vandals killed off the light poles in the church parking lot, so it’s a relief to have some representation of them still in existence.

I love how the same light fixture was used on two different ultra-modern mid-century buildings, and how diverse the two locations are.  One is South St. Louis City and the other is deep North St. Louis County.  And I wonder if the Buder Building architect (still unknown to me) may have seen the light poles at the Independent Congregational Church and did a direct copycat?  Or was this just a popular lighting choice for MCM architects during this 3-year period, thanks to the hustle of some lighting vendor?