Blairmont & Bohemian Hill


Between the above, and the Bohemian Hill fiasco, I have two questions for the people who run the city of St. Louis:

What century is it?
Where’s you’re civic self-esteem?

Re: Blairmont
I’m pretty sure it’s the 21st century, yet both city & state government is dangerously close to resurrecting 19th century Jim Crow Laws that were completely abolished in the latter 20th century. This potential regression into segregation is just as absurd as it is illegal.

Re: Bohemian Hill
There’s no denying that St. Louis City has come back to life, and it’s the unique aspects of this city that have been its resurrecting life force. Yet our civic leaders still carry on as if we have to beg and grovel to every Daddy Walgreens to have any chance at survival. Rather than plan and deal with a sense of purpose and confidence, their continual cave-ins to homogenous, corporate pressure just reveals a lack of respect for themselves, their city and the citizens who voted them in.

New Town at St. Charles

New Town At St. Charles
St. Charles, MO
No matter how hard one may try not to look at an accident, you still sneak a peek. The specter of New Town hung heavy over me as reports from others who’d made the trek were trickling in, so no matter how much principles dictated not looking, I was “stuck in traffic” and might as well take a good look. Accompanied by someone brave enough to take it, we left a trail of breadcrumbs (necessary when traveling west of 270) for the long journey out to Oz in a Cornfield.

The Riverfront Times already covered this topic at length, and Jen Silverberg’s masterful, editorial photos speak loud and clear. So, I’ll just get right to the immediate impressions.

After cruising through a placeless industrial complex, you spot dots of color popping out of a defunct cornfield. There’s only one entrance into the “city,” and an old, abandoned farmhouse serves as the un-manned guard post. A quick scan of the distant layout is interrupted by a curious and wondrous sight:
A Canal.
Filled with water.
Stone foot bridges crossing it.
Like Walt Disney Does Venice & Paris.
With people paddling and floating in it!

Disney World continues, as one floats through the “It’s A Small World” theme ride, because most every nationality of traditional European residential architecture is represented (above, Italian Lite), and all within the first two blocks! And if you stop to absorb details, a line of visiting cars backs up behind you like impatient tourists waiting to get on The Matterhorn.

From flowers and trees, to porch chairs (which much be issued to NT homebuyers’ on closing day, with strong recommendations on proper placement), to sidewalk lighting, it’s impossible to escape that movie set feeling. But actually, it reminded me of the first time I walked into a Pottery Barn store, and had the queer sensation of being trapped in a catalog. Or more accurately, New Town looks just like the “Historic Buildings” section of a model train accessories catalog.

The model train feeling persisted because, Where Are The People?
Granted, it was a day so hot that local weathermen swore you’d spontaneously combust if you stepped outside. But even the perfect tableaus depicting the classic art of porch sittin’ usually lacked tables for placing beverages, or any other signs that people actually used these spaces.

Moving deeper into the vast development, we finally spotted people spilling in and out of the various model homes, so we went in the model that sports an attached “mother-in-law” cottage. Aside from battling feelings of Alice in Wonderland falling down the Barbie Townhouse hole, the interior work and layout was OK. As with most of the NT homes, they are not square footage hogs; rooms are modestly sized, with some of the bedrooms about the same size as those in a South St. Louis bungalow. The developers are truly more concerned with density than with soaring entries and great rooms with ceilings so high you can see the energy bills mounting.

(Above, left, the exterior color palette to choose from. Above, right, test patches on a common ground utility shed buck the color rules.)
More urban traits the developers got right: narrow streets (some of them one way) with cars lining the curbs; alleys with trash dumpsters, and sidewalks for loitering. From a kid’s perspective, this place should be paradise because it’s easily traversable on a bike or foot, plenty of places to play out of parental sight (like the plethora of unprotected buildings under construction – a classic hotbed of juvenile delinquency), and lots of obvious and not-so-obvious places to gather in groups.
But where are the kids?
Kids don’t care if it’s awfully hot because that’s what summer’s all about. Are their parents making them stay inside lest they melt into a puddle of Juicy Juice in the villainous heat wave? Or does New Town discourage the owning of children?

Right on cue, the sign above appears on a tiny front lawn, proving children are allowed and are being manufactured on a daily basis. Plus, this family has a pun-ridden appreciation of Italian sex goddesses, so New Town does embrace the cultural arts.

There are a few lakes throughout, and the signs posted around them warn that you use them at your own risk. But they are ambiguous about the swimming issue; doesn’t say you can, doesn’t say you can’t. So, can you swim in them?

And once again, just like a stage manager cueing the talent to take the stage, a father carrying a brightly colored floating device is trailed by two young boys in sleek black life jackets. They are headed straight for the lake. You can swim in the lakes!

Yes, you can swim, float, paddle and boat, and in the case of the above lake, they provide wide, descending stair steps that take you right to the edge of the stone-encrusted shore. And the water temperature was, of course, perfect. And it’s at this point that we asked ourselves, “Is it OK to not hate this place?”

Sometimes, the buildings would elicit outright admiration; quality material choices, or proper placement of a 3-block long row of Bostonian townhouses, or ultra-wide wooden stairs leading up to a porch would signal a deep commitment to doing this right. But then you pull away from a dense cluster of Faux Brooklyn Heights to see miles of flat, treeless land bumping up against a typical McMansion subdivision in the distance, and that model train set feeling returns.

Now, if you’ve spent your entire life living in St. Charles, or similar environs, then New Town is a safe (though there sure were a lot of cop cars around) way of experiencing the joys of traditional urban life, circa Leave It To Beaver. For the older folks who long ago fled a city in a mild state of panic, this is a rarified chance to approximate the sentimental aspects of their early years. For the people who still live in a bonafide urban area, it lacks the crucial flavor of organic and ethnic evolution. New Town is the visual equivalent of the taste of low fat Pringles.

The central business district (above) was both disquieting and fascinating. It follows the model of “county seats” throughout small town America, but in this case, it was actually inhabited by people attending to business and pleasure. We finally saw all the townfolk who’d been missing during the first part of this journey.

The large-scale chess set (above) saw use, and inside the Town Hall, over a dozen tables were occupied by people of various ages deeply concentrating on chess matches. A steady stream of people were coming and going from the market, and tiny groups of people were milling about a row of food stands (below), which were made to look like miniature temples in Athens, Greece.

It was truly hot, so cold beverages were needed, and that’s where the (quick, pick the fruitiest name ever) Prancing Pony came of service. It’s billed as a cafe, but it’s a modern take on the general store and lunch counter (of which actual people were actually using) combined with a bookstore. Their architecture section puts a Border’s to shame, and the developers are dead serious about New Urbanism, with selections like A Pattern Language and How Buildings Learn. It was an impressive selection of books.

After purchasing bottled drinks (for which they provide an old-fashioned bottle opener nailed to the wooden counter), it was time to sit and observe the New Town inhabitants. And sure enough, they were walking into the town center and casually using all the amenities; bringing Prancing Pony food out onto the veranda (below) complete with overhead doors opened and closed depending on the weather, or small groups having a quick chat before attending to marketing.

I wound up in conversation with a young boy who was picking up grilled cheese sandwiches to go, and I peppered him with endless questions that he answered in a friendly and precise manner. He and his family moved here from elsewhere in St. Charles, and their house was up for sale (“oh, they sell real fast, and for more money than when buying them the first time”) so they could move into a larger model that would be ready at the beginning of September. When I mentioned the name of a realtor we’d run into earlier, he remarked, “Oh yeah, she’s always selling. Lots of stuff to sell.”

I’d noticed one church already standing, with another one under construction, so I asked him what denominations they were. “Christian. They pretty much cover everyone,” and he said people do go to them.

He confirmed that it really is a great place for kids, pointing out a shallow amphitheater where they show free movies every Friday night (King Kong and Napoleon Dynamite), and lakes to swim and fish in (“I don’t know how deep they are because I haven’t touched bottom, yet”). The school buses come right into the town center to pick them up, and they do play in the alleys. While talking, he said “hi” or nodded to every person that passed by, and I was pleasantly surprised at how willing he was to engage an obvious visitor in prolonged conversation. So prolonged, that I had to let him go before the grilled cheese (wrapped in a nifty black boutique box) got cold.

This casual exchange made me wonder how the New Towners felt about outside visitors; do they want tourists coming in to use their grocery store, eat at their restaurants, watch their free films? My travel companion made a good point: This should be no different than someone from, say, Richmond Heights popping into the Central West End for a bite. They’ve set it up as a full-blown town (albeit a just-add-water version), so they really wouldn’t want to go out of their way to discourage patrons willing to spend cash.

Since New Town is working on a 12-15 year plan, it seems logical that they would explore the options of a movie theater, library, concert hall, etc. These venues probably wouldn’t pull a CWE crowd, but St. Charles and O’Fallon folks wouldn’t have to go as far to get some form of well-considered culture.

So, what are the final impressions as one heads back up that long, solitary road?
I didn’t feel as creeped out as I had expected, and I begrudgingly admired a large chunk of the architecture in much the way the newfangled Las Vegas bowled me over with how expertly it recreates landmarks from around the globe. It’s fun to occasionally check out a dog & pony show, and the people sure were nice, but I was relieved to see the highway that leads back to a real city.

My fellow explorer hit upon the obvious: Sure would have been nice if they’d tried this experiment on the Old North Side. And he hit upon a missed opportunity: If they feel compelled to do something like this, why does it have to be a pastiche? Why not go for ultra-contemporary, sleekly modern homes, with minimalist boxes lining the lakes?

If a developer is sinking this much money into such a (by Midwestern standards) radical concept, they could also push the envelope a little further, and change up the architecture on the back acres of the town. There’s still time, and people will buy anything as long as it’s expertly marketed. New Town is both a marketing campaign and a misplaced experiment, kind of like New Coke capitulating to Classic Coke with vanilla. But for those who prefer their caffeine via coffee, it’s a moot point.

Cupples Station

Out of the blue in early February 2006, an e-mail asks: Can your photos be blown up to poster-size? Specifically, the Charles Schmitt shot?

That brief message ended 2 months later with 25 of my architecture photos enlarged to 2’ x 3’ and framed to hang permanently inside the renovated Cupples Station apartment building. (Above, L-R: South Hampton, Arsenal & Northland)

On April Fool’s Day I got to see some of my prints installed in the building, which is now actively seeking renters for the spaces that remain. On this same day, Pablo Weiss opened his newest restaurant, Mercury, which occupies a bottom corner of the building (above). It’s a minimalist twist on the sports bar. The interior is simple and lively, the outdoor bar area is ultra appealing and will provide what this part of downtown needs: street life.
My photos hang opposite the elevators on all 7 floors of Cupples. While on the tour, every time the elevator doors opened, I felt an odd sensation. It’s a new experience, so I have no idea what to call the sensation. (Above, Mr. Yummy’s)

The main atrium of the building (above) keeps most of the industrial warehouse intact, both by design and because some portions of the building were built for no man to ever tear asunder. The “affordable rate” apartments carved out of this gigantic space come in various dynamic configurations, and they actually are affordable. Not affordable as in “cheap for downtown,” but as in giving people who make, say, under $30,000 annually a chance to live in attractive, spacious city apartments. Which is a welcome concept, especially since the living quarters currently brewing all around this building will be the typical uber-expensive condos and lofts that exclude the majority of folks who would like to live downtown. So, I’m proud to have my photos hanging in a handsome rehab that my friends and I could actually afford to live in.

Above is my “patron,” Ron Silverman, senior vice president of Historic Restoration, Inc. He’s a Beverly Hills, CA native (with some lively tales of the late Ambassador Hotel) who’s a genuine fan of both high- and low-culture. One of the perks of his position is picking the artwork that grace HRI rehab projects.

The day Silverman gave me the tour of Cupples under construction, he mentioned picking the paintings that hang in the Renaissance Grand. I told him that he picked some paintings from a good friend of mine.
“Really?” he said. “Which artist?”
Dominic Finocchio.
His immediate reply was citing exactly which floor those paintings hung. Now, Silverman selected over 20 artists over 3 years ago for this project, yet he still had instant recall of just one of the painters and even remembered exactly where it hangs! At that moment I knew that this man truly loves art and I was honored that he’d gone out of his way to find me.

(Above, River Roads) Silverman is only “half-committed to the Internet,” but that’s where he started when looking for art to go into Cupples. During a random search, he found an image that caught his eye, and followed the paths which lead to me. Then came his brief but momentous e-mail. He’d noticed that many of my photos were about buildings dieing or dead, and thought, for a change, I might like to be a part of a once-comatose building coming back to life. Correct assessment.

(Above, in the leasing office, Downtown St. Louis) I was already a long-time fan of HRI because The Statler (which became the Renaissance) and the Merchandise Mart (the inside of which I used to spelunk on lunch hours while it was boarded up and vacant) had always been 2 of my favorite downtown buildings. To watch them brought back to life was a joyous process, and to have it done right was a bonus.

(Above, in the leasing office, L-R: Wellston Mondrian & Charles Schmitt) I had put together a portfolio of 40 images for Silverman to pick from. His choices were all St. Louis city and county buildings, with a good chunk of them no longer in existence, or threatened with extinction. As I went through the exacting process of converting images for large format and working with the man who printed the posters, I felt this odd sense of detachment. It was like looking at someone else’s work. Then I surveyed the big box of finished posters and got the biggest kick out of seeing my memories enlarged. I’m still amused by personal adventures being thought of as art. I’ve spent years getting dirty, violating private property and meeting all kinds of interesting people because of it, and now some of those moments are hanging like casual museum pieces. Wild.

At the time of the viewing, the rest of the photos were waiting to be installed (above, Cross Keys and Natural Bridge Road). My thanks to Ron Silverman for this unique opportunity to be a part of the Cupples Station project.

Inappropriate Redux

Almost a year ago, the very first B.E.L.T. entry was about this house under construction. Take a peek at where it was while lingering in limbo. Now, note that construction has resumed. Note that it actually looked better before it was clothed.

Yes, it’s been faced with a circus of colored brick patterns, complete with an ornate little back patio. Ahh, suburban fantasy in deep south side Carondelet… Maybe they’ll put in a pool and tennis courts.

I noticed the church one block south of this suburban palace, and wondered if the “designer” of the house was inspired by its brick work and dimensions. But that would have required the folks responsible for the house to be aware of their surroundings and wanting to fit in and contribute to the flavor of the neighborhood. So, nah, the house is just inappropriate, period.

Darla Court


Darla Court, Jennings, MO
As if Northland being demolished wasn’t hard enough, I found my childhood home behind Northland (on Meadowlark) now boarded up and condemned. A tangible piece of my personal past is being wiped off the map, and the timing of it borders on overkill.

The neighborhood itself is a classic hodgepodge, with homes ranging from the early 1900s to the late 1960s, and while half of the houses are as crisp as I remember them, the other half are abandoned and rotting.

We always traversed this neighborhood on foot, so I knew it intimately…or so I thought until I took a turn down a street I’d never been down before. This small area couldn’t be more tucked away and ignored, and thus has no compulsion towards suburban civility, feeling more like a bayou swamp settlement. In the midst of Midnight in the Garden of Good & Evil I discovered a portal into The Modern WayBack Machine.
By taking a curious right and heading down a steep hill, I rolled back in time to a Jet Set Duplex Park. A paisley-shaped street is ringed with pristine examples of optimistic car culture multi-family dwellings, all butterfly winged carports and picture windows.

There were a few variations on the theme (above), but all are low-slung duplexes lovingly tended to.

I was numb as I stood gawking in the middle of the court, feeling as if I’d stepped into a 1960s postcard. The intense heat of the day made my head woozy, so I assumed I was imagining this clean and precise oasis of residential modern in the midst of a forgotten swamp land. But it was true! On this island, martini shakers still rattled at hibachi BBQs while alligators and scorpions surely lurked in the overgrown lawns of the homes outside this bubble.

How did I miss this place all these years?
I asked my parents about it, and they, too, had no idea it existed because they didn’t even realize you could go east of Huiskamp Ave in that neighborhood. So I didn’t feel like such a dunce for overlooking it. Plus, it’s tucked into the valley of a large dead end.

St. Louis County property tax records show that my Mid-Century Model Train Neighborhood was built in 1968 as Glenview Court. Meaning, it was built while we lived in the area, but sailed under the radar.

Most every duplex still retains its original and unique metal medallion on the front facade (note tikki stone faces, above middle), and the owners sit in lawnchairs under their carports wondering why this chick is casing their court. I keep returning because it’s like the Demolition Gods threw me a bone, allowing a new chapter within the doomed pages of my architectural biography.

Vedder of St. Louis Hills


Nottingham & Locke in St. Louis Hills
South St. Louis, MO
It’s the Sybill of apartment buildings.


The St. Louis Hills website says of it:
On Nottingham Avenue, closer to Francis Park, is one of the Hills’ architectural landmarks, the Vedder apartment building. Rich in art deco details it boasts curved corners, casement and circular windows, and complicated brick works. What makes it particularly special is that all six units have penthouses.

What’s also special is that everyone who lives there appears to be creative and/or artistic (as witnessed by what shows in their windows), and the place is in immaculate shape (save for the front yard fountain remaining dry).

From this view, it’s a ship.

From this view it’s a castle.
The fountain gives it a public park feel.
Depending which angle it’s viewed from, it’s 1930’s Streamline Deco or Middle Ages German fortress.
And because I’m merely a human of a certain age, I always think of Pearl Jam’s Eddie Vedder when I see the terra cotta nameplate. That part is against my will – I’m not a fan. But this place is certainly the most unique building in St. Louis Hills.

Behlmann Farms

A tad north of Jamestown Mall in Florissant, case MO, medicine the Behlmann family’s horse farm was sacrificed so another Insta-Suburb (just add water and sod) could help tame the greenery problem that has plagued this part of the county for over a century.

After the horror of construction crews ripping out hundreds of mature trees, it was easy to ignore this settlement going up, because it looked like more of the same. But at the entrance to the fledgling Behlmann Farms (did the family insist their name be used, or is it just the tradition of naming a place after the feature exterminated?) standing far apart from the rest of the class is this unusual structure:
behlman farm's house photo by toby weiss
I say “unusual” because it’s actually very attractive. One could go so far as to call it Italianate without the slightest bit of sarcasm. The developer somehow got the courage to revive the grand tradition of American Revivals, a roughly 100 year period in our country’s residential history where homes were based on various centuries of European architecture.
behlman farm's house photo by toby weiss
Everything else in the subdivision (above left) follows the played-out trend of too much windowless vinyl rudely interrupted with some off-color remarks by sheets of brick façade, and don’t forget that the garage is waaay more important than the front entrance. McBride & Son did throw a bone of courtesy to mailmen when they constructed these lovingly crafted Mailbox Kiosks (above right). But these examples further highlight just how special the model home is:
behlman farm's house photo by toby weiss
It has a detached 3-car garage building and its own mailbox! This one house is staging its own Urban Retro Revolution, and if I had truckloads of disposable cash, I’d have even more of these houses built, just to keep that freak flag flyin’… until I saw this on the very back side:
behlman farm's house photo by toby weiss
WHAT?!?!?!?!
Did they exhaust the brick budget too early? Is there a zoning law that requires a certain amount of vinyl must be used? Did they purposely design this to be the chive on the tooth? What is the logic behind this? Look, if someone is going to pay nearly $300K for this house, the least they could do is carry out the brick theme on all sides of the house!
Man, talk about getting’ punked…

Inappropriate in Brentwood


High School Road & Lawn Avenue
Brentwood, MO
There’s an imposing, sore thumb underway in the heart of suburban Brentwood. A subtle, horizontally meandering ranch (much like the one remaining across the street) went up for sale, and someone bought it to do that trendy Teardown thing.


The trouble with Teardowns is precisely described here, and this intersection neatly captures the concept. A mixture of appropriately scaled bungalows, ranches, 1.5-story and 2-story homes get a dose of steroids in the form of a new construction that could be described as…well, Post-Modern Greek Colonial Federal Anti-Lawn Revival. While it’s no taller than the houses directly next door to the west, it does have that bloated, too-much-high-fructose-corn-syrup look common to deep West County McMansion developments.

That the new construction is trying to elbow the other houses out of the way is most evident when approaching the house from the back (pictured below). Heading north on High School Rd., first you see a long row of garage doors spring out of a cluster of trees, then 2 gigantic bay windows pop out like Double D’s on Olive Oyl. Mere feet away from the stop sign intersection, and you can literally feel the compression, a massive wall of doors and windows slamming into the street, threatening to bulldoze the bungalow across from it.
Every time I drive past, my left shoulder instinctively flinches away to keep from hitting it. I worry that the neighbor’s vegetation might not adapt to having the sun blocked out. Does the rest of the neighborhood find this is a welcome addition?

Inappropriate & Rotting


NE corner of Colorado & Iron
Neighborhood near Carondelet Park in South St. Louis
Someone made real on their desire for a steroidal suburban house in a thoroughly urban neighborhood. The money must have dried up, and here sits the shell, forlorn and overly-geometric, an abandoned hoosier castle atop a mud hill.

Neighborhood kids don’t even trespass the plastic orange fence for illicit play. That’s how freaky this thing is within context of the neighborhood.

My first thought upon discovering this misguided dream: reflief that they didn’t get to finish this inappropriate monster.
My lingering thoughts: how do we get rid of it? Does the Neighborhood Stabilization office handle complaints for enforced demolition?